Wednesday, April 2, 2014

April Fools

In case it wasn't obvious enough, April Fools from me. I would never give up some of the things I think look great and make for better fitting clothing. That said, I've actually become a bit more tolerant of other points of view in the last couple years. The way I see it is, as much as I may not like it, slim fit suits are better than no suits at all. And if it causes younger people to know how to dress and adapt that to changing fashions as they go on (eventually the pendulum will swing back and we'll see pleated fronts in the mainstream again), all the better.

Here's what I'm actually wearing today, including a new grenadine garza grossa from The Knottery. I'll do a review on it pretty soon.

Hope everyone had a silly and fun April 1st.





Tuesday, April 1, 2014

A realization...

I think it's best if I just start wearing current styles. I know this will come as a shock to many of you who read, but it will make shopping a hell of a lot easier not having unattainably high standards. And I can just sew buttons for braces to keep lower rise trousers from slipping down my hips anyway.

The thing is, nobody but us cares about "classic style". The term is a joke and always has been. Style changes through the decades and there's little we can do to stop it. Plus my significant other said she likes me in slim fit suits. Happy wife, happy life, right?

So gentlemen, the whole "pseudo-vintage" look has been fun but I'm afraid you'll see a change in my outlook. If I'm no longer welcome in the classic menswear blogosphere, so be it. I can always go on Reddit or something.

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Upcoming Paul Evans collection

This collection stands apart from their initial offerings in that they're taking more risks, style wise. However, I'd definitely wear the single monk straps, chukkas, and wholecuts.

Again, they are offering sleeker profile, Italian-made shoes more accessibly in the United States, which sets them apart from American shoe manufacturers at around the same price point. Allen Edmonds already offers Italian shoes, but they are limited to loafers only.

I look forward to the debut of this collection and hope this brand prospers -- as well as offers more sizing options in the future.

A beautifully burnished pair of wholecuts.

Friday, March 21, 2014

Black Lapel Spring 2014

I think, for once, Black Lapel has actually released something right on time. Ahead of time, actually.

The Spring 2014 Collection is here. Along with their usual addition of a few all-seasonal suitings (the grey birdseye is a particularly classic choice), there is finally linen! Or sort of. Blends of roughly 3/4 wool and 1/4 linen. Derek Tian explained that this was chosen because it resists wrinkles more than pure linen, but less than pure wool while still giving much of the same warm weather comfort. Along with that is a wool-mohair blend in light grey with white stripes. Blends of mohair (you will rarely if ever see a fabric in pure mohair) are more breathable in warm weather than pure wool but aren't as popular as they once were for menswear. I hope to see more wool-mohair blends from them in the future, including solids. I only find it unfortunate that the model is wearing a belt with a three piece suit, as it splays and bulges out the waistcoat points in an unattractive way. The dark belt also breaks up what should be an elegant flow of fabric.

I'm not sure if they changed this before the spring collection, but I just noticed the Shawl Tuxedo pictures were updated to a classier single button style with the newer, improved shawl shape. It is a big improvement from the examples pictures they had before -- rather bottom heavy and evocative of the '90s in a bad way -- but the bottom taper may be a tad too skinny for my tastes. Worth noting however that they are perfectly willing to copy lapel shapes that you prefer, which is great for guys like me who are way too picky.

Monday, February 24, 2014

"Curated."

I normally try not to complain too much but can we please, please, PLEASE stop using "curated" as a buzzword for clothing collections? I'm beginning to tire of it because, cutting to the chase here, it sounds obnoxious and completely full of sh*t. I get that the mainstream think it's correct for the selecting of items as part of a collection, but until the last few years I'd never heard of anyone using it to refer to clothing and accessories. Curating is what curators -- people hired by a gallery, museum, archive, or library to oversee its content -- do, not stylists or company shoppers for a fashion brand.

To put it simply, get over yourselves! I no more "curate" my personal clothing purchases than a restaurant owner "curates" the most delicious bakery items from all over town to sell. I remember a similarly pretentious trend years ago to use "artisan" in selling and discussing clothing. Thankfully it didn't last very long, though I still hear and read it a lot in regards to food. (Something this song parodies quite well.)

Now I realize many believe they have to use it to appear hip or knowledgeable, but still wince when clothing companies I otherwise respect (you all know who you are) misappropriate the term just as so many others do. It's nothing personal but... please don't do it?

Friday, February 21, 2014

Kent Wang

Just got a couple more things in from Kent Wang.

For those who don't know, Wang is a rather competitively priced haberdasher for those who want to up their style a bit without breaking the bank. He first made a name for himself in the online menswear community by selling pocket squares with hand-rolled edges and double-sided cuff links. While his offerings have expanded quite a bit since then (I first purchased a white linen pocket square just over six years ago), I know for a fact that these two things are done pretty well to this day.

Powder blue linen pocket square ($20) and silver oval mother of pearl cuff links ($55).
Some of the cuff links no longer have chains connecting them, but a solid piece soldered together.

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Black Lapel updates their website...

For those who thought the previous version of the website was "dated" (which I don't see, but okay), Black Lapel have recently updated it. It rather reminds me of the design on Ratio Clothing's website. It's a bit more sleek now, though I still wish there was an option for special requests in the customization or checkout. Go have a look!