Review: Ratio Clothing -- Fitzgerald Button Down
Just received my new OCBD from Ratio Clothing. It has their new unlined, long roll button-down collar (3 1/2" point). Other, less sturdy fabrics will have a soft, thin interlining from what I understand. Currently it's one of their "secret" options but will debut sometime this year. It may even replace the current button-down collar. They added a back collar button at my request. Although they're also capable of locker loops and and a button flap pocket, I abstained from going that far. I may with my next order. Sent measurements of a well fitting shirt so they could replicate the fit, which turned out great.
How is the collar itself? Excellent. Closer to one of the old Troy Guild, Gitman, or other shirtmakers rather than Brook Brothers, but I'm not complaining. Proper Cloth has offered their own long roll button-down, but I think this one beats it in that it has traditional angled corners on the collar band rather than rounded and the fact that it is unlined.
With all these things in mind, there's no excuse for the trads not to give them a try. A steal at $98. Accordingly with the price, the workmanship isn't quite on the level of Mercer & Sons -- there is a split yoke but the placket finishing at the bottom is standard, more loose threads out of the box, etc. Nonetheless, if you want to keep that American factory that makes BB OCBDs alive, this is another way to do it.
Update: Ratio Clothing has since released this collar as a standard design option and named it the "Fitzgerald Button Down". You will need to specify in the order comments if you want it to be unlined.
DISCLAIMER: Nouveau Vintage received material compensation for this review in the form of a discount. However, every effort has been made to remain objective.
How is the collar itself? Excellent. Closer to one of the old Troy Guild, Gitman, or other shirtmakers rather than Brook Brothers, but I'm not complaining. Proper Cloth has offered their own long roll button-down, but I think this one beats it in that it has traditional angled corners on the collar band rather than rounded and the fact that it is unlined.
With all these things in mind, there's no excuse for the trads not to give them a try. A steal at $98. Accordingly with the price, the workmanship isn't quite on the level of Mercer & Sons -- there is a split yoke but the placket finishing at the bottom is standard, more loose threads out of the box, etc. Nonetheless, if you want to keep that American factory that makes BB OCBDs alive, this is another way to do it.
Update: Ratio Clothing has since released this collar as a standard design option and named it the "Fitzgerald Button Down". You will need to specify in the order comments if you want it to be unlined.
DISCLAIMER: Nouveau Vintage received material compensation for this review in the form of a discount. However, every effort has been made to remain objective.
Sweet looking collar! It's not quite as flamboyant looking as I prefer my buttondown collars but I might give it a try. That's cool that they have three buttondowns, but the small one looks way too wimpy for pretty much anyone to wear.
ReplyDeleteIf you want something with even more roll, you could give Kamakura Shirts a go. The points on their button-down collars are a full 3.75" long and give a more pronounced roll if I remember correctly. The shirts also come with mother of pearl buttons standard. Mercer & Sons is another great OCBD with one of the best collar rolls on the market. I've reviewed them here and love their shirts, but they can be rather pricey and don't have a choice between slim and classic fits without paying even more. Ratio Clothing has the advantage of MTM sizing, lower price, and choice of other details.
DeleteI mostly agree about the Small Button Down, but have met a few tiny guys who could maybe make it work. Their regular Button Down has 3" points and some collar roll, so I think it's still the best option even on smaller bodies. My Brooks Brothers popover has the "Clifford" collar, which looks almost identical to the Small Button Down, but I rarely wear it because of how big it makes my head and neck appear.
Wow. Thanks for the recommendations and knowledge, I really appreciate it!
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI loved the review for the Ratio OCBD and was wondering if you've checked to see if there was a difference between the campus Oxford and the American Oxford shirts that they make. I do know that the campus Oxford is made in Vietnam while the other is American made. Also, how would you compare the value between Mercer and Sons versus Ratio?
Thank you in advance.