Kingsman: The Secret Service -- "That Dope Ass Smoking Jacket" (Updated)

Since my article on Colin Firth's beautifully-cut double breasted suits from Kingsman, I've had many requests to cover another beloved outfit from the film.

There are spoilers. You have been warned. But really, why haven't you seen it yet?

"DeVere" arriving at Valentine's mansion. 

Galahad poses as a billionaire to infiltrate a black tie gala held by supervillain Richmond Valentine (Samuel L. Jackson). To his surprise, he finds himself not only overdressed but the whole affair cancelled in his honour for a private dinner. He keeps up appearances nonetheless in a striking dark blue velvet dinner jacket and Black Watch tartan trousers. This outfit is perhaps more appropriate to what the event turned into rather than what was originally intended, but it may suit his cover to dress in a more creative way. Unlike his suits, made by Martin Nicholls London, the jacket was actually a rush job by Campbell Carey, who was then at Kilgour, and had previously made some clothing for director Matthew Vaughn.

Valentine later refers to it as "that dope ass smoking jacket" in admiration. Its retail counterpart was even listed as a smoking jacket in the Mr Porter clothing line. It is styled as a dinner jacket, complete with a single button closure, black faille silk facings, jetted besom pockets, and a structured interior. The only aspects this dinner jacket has in common with traditional smoking jackets is the velvet fabric and shawl collar. However, one can say that this the modern equivalent since they are rarely worn for the sole purpose of lounging around and smoking anymore. The sleeves feature faille silk turnback cuffs, an Edwardian era touch that may not serve a purpose but certainly looks stylish. Hart is in good company, with other fictional spies including James Bond wearing them. Double vents on a dinner jacket are frowned upon by some menswear purists but embraced by others as a tasteful update. A single vent would be too casual given its sporty and less refined appearance. The straight padded shoulders with roped sleeveheads and nipped waist are present on other tailored clothing in the movie. The sleeves appear slightly short at times, but they could simply be catching on the end of his shirt cuffs. His shirt sleeves thus appear a bit long in the shot below.

The jacket looks midnight blue or even black in some shots.

The trousers are Black Watch Tartan fabric and have a medium-low rise, flat front, and plain hemmed bottoms with a moderate break. Unlike most evening trousers, these are more like Scottish trews and lack a silk stripe on the side. This offers more dinner jacket options to pair them with -- not needing to match the silk facings -- and the flexibility of wearing them outside of black tie. As with his suits, they have a trim straight cut and are held up with slide buckle tabs. Martin Nicholls may have made the trousers, unlike Kilgour who made the jacket.

Replica smoking jacket as sold through Mr Porter's first Kingsman collection.

Hart wears a white marcella-fronted evening shirt, again from Turnbull & Asser. The body and sleeve fabric are poplin with the collar and cuffs in marcella to match the bib. The studs on the front of the shirt are white mother of pearl on a silver backing, but the cufflinks are difficult to see. They appear to be the same rose gold ones that he wears with his suit judging by behind the scenes materials. The Drake's bow tie matches his dinner jacket's facings in black faille silk. Unfortunately, he forego a cummerbund which leaves some shirt exposed between the jacket's button and the trouser's lower rise. This is the only low point in an otherwise polished look. His shoes are black George Cleverley patent leather oxfords. Though not seen in great detail, the Mr Porter version suggests they are the same chisel toed last as on the cap toe oxfords. As always, he fills the jacket's breast pocket with a folded white linen pocket square, also by Drake's.

Between takes on the set of Kingsman, which shows the jacket to actually be dark blue. The exposed triangle of white shirt is more obvious here.

Bonus: Harry's Manners

Even undercover, Harry shows class and good etiquette by not belittling his host's rather... unconventional culinary choices. This goes along with his general dislike of snobbery. Valentine expresses his love for pairing '45 LaFitte and cheeseburgers, with Harry humorously suggesting '37 Chateau d'Yquem and Twinkies as pudding -- or just "dessert" to North Americans. As he says earlier in the film, "Manners maketh man." It matters little how well-dressed one is if their character doesn't match.

"I'll have the Big Mac, please."

I may cover another outfit if there is a call for it (such as Lancelot's tweed suit). Thanks to Matt Spaiser for the inspiration and all those who enjoyed the original blog post.

Screencaps taken by


  1. Harry shows way more respect than he should when this guys shows none. He dresses like a slob and has crappy taste in food. No respect for himself.

    His manners were unnecessary here unless it's just part of his cover. Do you think James Bond would do this? He comments on The Beatles perfectly in Goldfinger.

    1. I will respectfully disagree. Valentine is a perfect gentleman, even if his personal style, food tastes, and world domination plans aren't up to our standards. (He would look better without the popped collar, baseball cap, and superfluous outer shirt here IMO.) I don't much care for McDonald's myself, but won't turn it down if someone offered it on their dime. As Harry quotes from Hemingway, "There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self." It could be part of his cover, sure, but given how outspoken he is against elitism I think it's part of his personality too.

      As for Bond, observe his manners in You Only Live Twice. Dikko Henderson goes to the trouble of mixing a martini for Bond, but mistakenly thinks it is "stirred, not shaken". Instead of making a fuss of it, Bond accepts courteously. He does make a jab at The Beatles in Goldfinger, but it wasn't to directly insult someone's taste in music. He was merely stating that one needs to drink Dom Perignon at the proper temperature to fully appreciate it.

  2. Hey Jovan! Will you cover the new Kingsman when it comes out on bluray? There's a pretty snazzy velvet DJ worn by Eggsy in it as well. Even the western style tailored clothing looks cool to a degree.

    1. Honestly, some extremely disappointing -- I don't mean that lightly -- plot details were leaked of The Golden Circle and so I was not terribly interested in seeing it. I may rent it out of morbid curiosity, but most of my friends who liked the first movie felt pretty let down. Even then, there's not much clothing-wise I'm interested in. The suits are cut pretty much the same as in the first movie, as nice as the western style jackets look they're still not my cup of tea, and I'm sorry to say that the velvet dinner jacket isn't either! That shade of orange is far too bright to look elegant on anyone, even on a cocky young son-of-a-gun like Eggsy.

  3. Thanks for this detailed inventory of Harry's formal attire. The jacket appears to be a dark blue, say a 'midnight blue' velvet. Valentine's line about the "smokin' jacket" - may be urban slang for what he deemed to be "attractive, good-looking, desirable, cool, hot" - i.e. a synonym for "hot." Although the latest trends indicate a diminuendo for the cummerbund, your comment certainly is apropos in this case - especially with the latest higher button stance. Well done.

    1. I thought I had replied to this, but apparently not. Sorry for the month-long delay. This is not a midnight blue, even if the film makes it appear that way. As behind the scenes material shows, it is merely a darker blue at best. Though I don't as a rule think replicas are a good source of details, they appeared to use the exact fabrics (if not the exact tailor) for the Kingsman Mr Porter line, and it was also blue there. I don't think midnight blue velvet is even necessary, considering velvet reflects light quite differently from wool -- hardly at all, even. This is the same reason I don't think it's necessary to have the silk facings in midnight blue. Midnight blue was invented by the Duke of Windsor to counter the green or brown tones black wool fabric can take on under artificial light.

      I hope the cummerbund comes back in fashion, because those are still sold while unfortunately proper evening waistcoats elude most manufacturers.


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