Black Tie at the 90th Academy Awards

Another year, another Academy Awards. Held on March 4, 2018, we once again were treated to various celebrity interpretations of the black tie dress code.

What's on offer this year? Some good, some bad, some "seriously what the heck". Lots of trousers that are too tight or tapered at the opening with highwater breaks, button twos, notch lapels, and uncovered waists or unbuttoned jackets. But, on the plus side, ordinary neckties seem to be nearly absent on the red carpet this year in favour of the much more debonair and traditional bow tie. Additionally, there were still a good number of single button dinner jackets. Cheap looking, attached wing collars also appear to be on their way out. Fingers crossed.

Velvet Goldmine

It's only fitting that velvet is an acceptable variation on dinner jackets since the original was based on smoking jackets.

Ansel Elgort dons a modern take on the smoking jacket with this bottle green number from Tom Ford. Matching satin facings aside, I'm a fan.

Another colourful velvet dinner jacket on Daniel Kaluuya. This shade of burnt orange is more elegant than the nasty, Halloween orange worn by Taron Egerton in Kingsman: The Golden Circle.

Oscar Isaacs showing how black velvet is always stylish.

Mature Elegance

These actors of gravitas show the rest of us how it's done. Single button shawl collar and peak lapel dinner jackets will never go out of style for good reason.

Christopher Plummer wears a blue dinner jacket, though it could be confused for a mismatched dinner suit. I only wish he'd chosen nicer shoes.

Gary Oldman in a dignified black shawl collar. Eliminate the flaps and it would be even better.

Mark Hamill finally gets a dinner suit more in keeping with his stature as an actor.

Sir Patrick Stewart, ever a man of class, models a bevelled-edge shawl collar from Dunhill. Love the pocket square (and Time's Up pins).

Donald Sutherland, despite some fit issues, shows why the classic black and white scheme is just that. Great opera pumps!

Could Have Been Better

Outfits that, had they done some research or put in more effort, could have excelled. They're not terrible, just so close yet so far.

The black shirt is one thing, Mahershala Ali appears to have forgotten his tie this year!

White shirts are traditional for a reason, Mario Lopez.

Tate Taylor has one too many studs. Having a waist covering or closing his jacket would have been the superior solution.

Well, it's Matthew McConaughey alright. Stubble aside, the colour choice of grey trousers and red bow tie fall short of achieving black tie's intended refinement.

The tiny shawl collar fashion just won't quit. Add a stingy wing collar with overlong shirt sleeves and this outfit falls short.

The Bi-Button Brigade

There was a disappointing number of two button dinner jackets on Sunday. Many still believe that they are just as formal as a single button or, amazingly, more formal! This the easiest way to make your "tux" look more like a regular suit and not very special at all.

Danny Glover's jacket could have been made without the bottom button and looked correct.

The slim Doug Jones in a slim dinner suit with both buttons fastened. At least leave the bottom button undone!

Two buttons + notch lapels = doubly pedestrian.

Judd Apatow demonstrates exactly why waist coverings were traditionally worn. Better to wear all buttons or get a fly front shirt if you must dispense with a cummerbund or waistcoat.

Kobe Bryant's getup looks even more like an ordinary suit thanks to the grey fabric.

And while Michael Strahan's looks a little less ordinary thanks to velvet, grey is still not a good colour for evening wear.

Steven Spielberg is another case of both buttons fastened, adding insult to injury.

I can only surmise Willem Dafoe's stylist wouldn't just let him wear a suit, thus leading to this undertaker-like ensemble.

Stranger Things

I noticed a few examples of these overlapping collar-over-lapel curiosities and have no idea what the name is. They're not particularly stylish though, appearing more like shy peak lapels than anything.

Andy Serkis in a rather tight-fitting jacket that doesn't do him any favours.

Kumail Nanjiani's collar is about to take flight from his oddly patterned dinner suit.

Lakeith David's navy blue suit would have looked more sophisticated with a proper collar.

It's Not Even Spring Yet!

Some continue to be confused about the time and place to wear white dinner jackets and the fact that they don't require silk facings. White dinner jackets are to be worn during the summer or in tropical climates as relief from the heat.

The all-white dinner suit isn't very sophisticated, but the least Timothée Chalamet could have done is wear boots that match. 

Host Jimmy Kimmel attired in what appears to be a Tom Ford dinner jacket. Ford has made a lot of marvellous clothing but still seems clueless to the fact that white dinner jackets should not have silk facings.

Best Original Screenplay winner Jordan Peele is similarly attired. I do like the fly front shirt.

Glorified Suits

When the occasion specifies black tie, it doesn't literally mean just that. These men could have and should have actually worn a dinner suit.

Armie Hammer believes being clad in velvet, adding a bow tie, and wearing patent leather shoes gives his outfit a pass. Armie Hammer is wrong.

Similarly, Mark Consuelos tries to dress up his Beatles costume with a bow tie. The velvet collar isn't enough. 

Someone of Martin McDonagh's accomplishments deserves better than looking like a The Matrix extra.

What Were They Thinking?

As the younger generations like to say, "I don't even." What happened here?

I could have lived with the kinky full dress suit if Adam Rippon had at least worn the correct accoutrements for it.

Tom Holland wears one of the few double-breasted jackets of the night but, like Serkis, didn't represent it well. The peacoat-like button stance makes him look smaller than he really is.

Much like McConaughey, I don't expect much from Woody Harrelson. But... come on, man.

The less said about Darrell Britt-Gibson's outfit the better.