Review: Beckett Simonon Part Two -- Elliot Balmoral Boot

Earlier this year Alena Cardona, Brand Relations Coordinator of Beckett Simonon, contacted me and asked if I was ready to do another review for them. Beckett Simonon is an online men's footwear company which reduces costs by selling directly in a made-to-order process which takes an average of 8 to 12 weeks. The reduced costs do not mean a reduction in quality, though, as they easily compete with any quality shoemaker in the $300+ range. Being satisfied with the Dean Oxford I received last time they reached out to me, I enthusiastically said yes. This time, I wished to review a pair of dress boots to gauge their quality level. I was offered a few different options that they could send me straight away without their usual made-to-order wait time, which is likely taken from the small inventory they made in each run for exchanges. I settled on one and it arrived within a couple weeks, just as with the Dean Oxford.

Originally I was sent the Lorenzo Boot, a derby/blucher style cap toe, in bordeaux. I needed more of this colour in my wardrobe and figured it would go with just about any suit, trouser, or chino. Perhaps even jeans. Unfortunately, when they arrived it turned out to be a size 12. A full size too large for me. Adena apologized for the mix up at the warehouse and I was able to exchange them, postage paid. We then settled on another style, the Elliot Balmoral Boot. Though it would be less flexible for casual attire, I'll admit some excitement here as I've wanted a pair of Balmoral boots since over a decade ago when my sartorial education began.

Credit: Gentleman's Gazette

Like the Lorenzo, they come with hard wearing rubber soles instead of leather. This makes them practical for light rain and snow, though the key word here is light. I'd put on a pair of Swims if you're expecting outright puddles and snow piles since they don't have a storm welt. But if you're brave, go right ahead. The original Balmoral boots (so-named after Balmoral Castle) worn by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were waterproofed, so you also should have yours treated if those are your intentions.

I waited three months for the Elliot since they were made-to-order. This may not be for everyone, but they keep you updated with bi-weekly emails on the status of their product. In total, I received five emails from start to finish detailing where they were in the process and how their products were made. Quite informative, quite interesting. Along with that I received a booklet in the box giving much of the same information. The wait time helps keep their costs down since they don't have to carry a lot of additional inventory, besides the previously mentioned extras in case anyone needs to make an exchange. They range from $199 to $219 for shoes and boots. It's basically the same process that every mainstream shoemaker like Allen Edmonds, Alden, and so forth goes through each retail season, but specifically for you and anyone else who pre-orders the specific footwear. Now, if one needs rubber soled boots in time for winter it would probably be a good idea to order ahead. By signing up for their emails, you'll know as soon as they have new offerings available for pre-order.

 As before, the packaging was pretty straightforward. There's an informational sticker inside the box top about how they were made. Again dust bags, extra laces, and footbeds to adjust the fit were provided. The boots looked pretty good apart from a small problem at the throat which I'll address later. The punch cap is attractive, as is the last which appears to be based on the ones they use for all their other oxfords. The bordeaux leather, while not burnished in any way, has a beautiful deep red colour that almost seems to change depending on the lighting. They came straight laced at the eyelets, but it appeared to be done for display using the Sawtooth method which is quick to do at a factory. I re-laced them using the Straight European method, which is more secure and doesn't mis-align the sides. The speed hooks, of course, can only be laced resembling the Criss Cross method but are going to be hidden under your trouser leg standing up anyway. Some people believe they do not belong on Balmoral boots (or any dress boot) regardless of that. I politely disagree, considering Balmoral boots from respected dress shoe manufacturers have had this feature for quite a while. However, some may take issue with them unrelated to their looks, which I'll explore in a bit.

Since the shaft and speed hook lacing are hidden when standing up, they are indistinguishable from any other punch cap oxford unless someone looks down at your footwear when sitting. (Even if they notice that you're wearing boots and pass comment on this fact, it makes for a good conversation starter. Tell them about the history of Balmoral boots.) A couple people I've talked to seem to think it's crass or vulgar to wear boots with tailored clothing and I cannot understand why. Personally, it feels pretty nice wearing them with a suit. My ankles are supported and the rubber soles feel just as solid as any double leather soles I've worn. In colder weather, dress boots also give you additional warmth at the ankle unlike dress shoes. Additionally, it's not as if you're wearing a pair of Timberlands with your finely tailored suit, but boots that are just as sleek as any fine dress shoes.

Unless you're Keanu Reeves, of course.

Credit: The Late Show with Stephen Colbert

The fit was great as last time, secure, and though they were stiff for the first couple wears (eight hour work days) they broke in well afterward. However, I do have a small problem with the right shoe. It tends to buckle slightly above the throat, which will not be seen by most people but is still a bugbear. Additionally, the tongue on this same one likes to slide over. Sometimes worse than other times, to the point where the laces will dig straight into my socks after an hour of wear. I'm not sure what's causing this issue. It could be solved by stitching the tongue into place on one side, such as is done on Allen Edmonds shoes. But this doesn't happen on the other boot, so that may not be the problem. I've never owned anything that had speed hooks, so it was a bit of an adjustment using them, but unless I lace tightly the knot has a tendency to fall out of the speed hooks after walking around some. Does anyone know of Balmoral boots that have eyelets at the top after the speed hooks? That could be one solution to this problem. This may be one unspoken reason why some believe they don't belong on dress boots.

The quality, notwithstanding the issues previously mentioned, is great as with last time. They are Blake-stitched, which is less labour intensive than Goodyear welting but will hold up well over time nonetheless. A Blake-stitch also makes for a sleeker sole profile than a Goodyear welt can ever have, even at its best. For example, the Allen Edmonds Carlyle that I own are just about the sleekest Goodyear welted shoes they carry, but the sole profile still looks a tad bulky in comparison to the rest of the shoe. The textured rubber soles grip pretty well, though I'd prefer a change to Dainite or Dainite-type soles. Those little grip studs can make all the difference sometimes and are designed to keep their tread for longer. Of course, that won't stop me or anyone else from resoling them with Dainite at B. Nelson when the time comes. As noted in my last review, I do wish they'd carry a greater range of sizes, at least including wides and narrows, since their products are made-to-order. This may be the only thing holding back some from buying.

Here's a video detailing the crafting process from their YouTube channel:

Despite the problems I had here, I'd recommend giving them a shot if Beckett Simonon re-issues them in the future. They're only $219, which is at least half of what most high quality shoemakers charge for dress boots. In fact, I think one would be satisfied with most any of their dress footwear. You are covered by a 12-month guarantee on defects in craftsmanship, so even if you have problems like mine and find them unacceptable, you would be taken care of by customer service.

Nouveau Vintage received material compensation from Beckett Simonon in exchange for this review. Despite this, I have made every effort to remain objective and consider the price versus quality and customer service. I encourage anyone to share their personal experiences in the comments whether or not it contradicts my own. Thanks to Adela Cardona once again for including me in Beckett Simonon's promotions.