Why should I wear a tailored jacket when it's warm out?
It's now been summer for over two weeks in the northern hemisphere, so let's talk about something that's probably on many menswear aficionados' minds: How to look great when it's hot out.
Something that tends to differentiate menswear aficionados from most people is that they will find just about any excuse to wear a jacket or tie. The question for them isn't why, but why not? Well, here's the "why" if you really must know:
The other thing that can help, besides reducing or eliminating the lining and choosing a breathable fabric, is minimal construction. Getting a lighter and thinner construction on the chest and shoulders can further mitigate the effects of the heat. Completely unstructured cotton sports coats have been popular for well over a decade now, as they pair well with very casual clothing and are inexpensive to produce and buy. Even very casual clothiers and outdoors companies make them. These have no shoulder padding, no chest piece, and no interlining at all. Most of the time, though not always, they lack lining as well. Beware that getting something completely unstructured will not have the same benefits of enhancing a physique as your typical business suit. They are best reserved for fabrics that are a bit heavier and have some more drape. Cotton or linen twills and heavier high twist wool fabrics such as Fresco by J.J. Minnis look at home with this construction or rather lack thereof. A good compromise is to get something made with no shoulder pads but a light sleevehead and light chest canvas. This will still give your shoulders and chest a bit more "oomph" while maintaining a lot of comfort.
Though not required, casual or sporty details harmonize perfectly with summer fabrics. Patch pockets instead of besom are the most obvious detail menswear nerds think of first. They are most often seen open, without a flap, but flapped versions exist. Some even have the opening slanted, similar to hacking pockets, for a jauntier touch. Flapped patch pockets can look a bit busy depending on one's taste. Some jackets will have the breast pocket done in the patch style as well. This is, again, a matter of preference and there's nothing wrong with having a welted breast pocket combined with lower patch pockets. Nevertheless, avoid doing this in reverse since it will look unbalanced. A welted breast pocket has the advantage of disguising the bulge from wearing a pocket square, a patch will show it more, so choose according to your priorities. Patch pockets aren't all that are available. Hacking (slanted) and ticket pockets also look good on sports coats and sports suits. Swelled edges further lend a relaxed look to a jacket. This stitching will usually appear 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch away from the edge of a lapel, pocket flap, or even vents, thus giving a "swelled" appearance. It's easily and almost always done by machine, so it will not look as formal as a handmade pick stitch at the edge, but that's part of the appeal. Finally, consider your choice of vent. Though double vents are the most popular and prevalent choice in ready-made suits now, the single vent remains the sportiest option and is still a perfectly valid choice.
Now, I personally don't care for peak lapels and a single breasted front combined with these other details, and especially not on cotton or linen, but your mileage may vary. I have yet to see a single breasted cotton or linen jacket, or one with swelled edges and patch pockets, that benefited from peak lapels since their more formal appearance can look at odds with everything else. However, if you have a little Jay Gatsby in you and want to do it anyway, go right ahead. Strangely, I have no issue with double breasted jackets in cotton or linen with these details, though I think they look best with a welted breast pocket and pick stitched edges. I can't quite explain why that works better in my mind, but a double breasted jacket does require peak lapels to look right. In any case, the more casual the fabric and details are, the more casual the trouser it will work with. Jeans and chinos, if well chosen in colour and fit, are fair game for a cotton twill, unconstructed, patch pocketed, swelled edge jacket. If you're wearing a sports coat which is a little more "dressed up" like the below example, it's best to wear proper trousers. Blue jeans or WWII khakis would never look right in this case.
Of course, a lot of this assumes you have the access to and money for made-to-measure, bespoke, or even just really good made-to-order clothing. It's still useful to keep these things in mind when shopping for off-the-rack clothing. Keep the same tenets of fit and taste in mind that you normally would. You especially shouldn't get a tight fit here, because the cooling benefits of summer jackets are lost when air can't circulate properly. If ordering online, make sure they have a good return policy; especially in the case of outdoor clothiers like Lands' End, Orvis, and so forth who often make these jackets in alpha sizes (instead of numerical chest sizes), with working sleeve buttonholes, and with a shorter body length. Some time ago I ordered a stretch cotton twill "travel blazer" from Orvis that looked fantastic on the website but left a lot to be desired in person and could not be fixed with alterations. Luckily, I was able to get my money back.
Waistcoats are your prerogative, though unlike in the time of The Great Gatbsy, they are no longer required. Keep in mind that while they look good, they add another layer of fabric and thus more warmth. That said, three-piece suits and separate waistcoats remain a classic choice for summer weddings and other such events, mostly if it's your event.
Ties are optional with warm weather suits. Really, they are! As with wearing jeans and chinos with a summer jacket, they look best sans tie the more casual they are. Rustic looking ties, such as those made of woven linen and cotton, look great and can keep things from looking too stuffy if that's your goal. Don't forget knitted silk ties either, especially the ones made with a "crunchy" open knit. I'd avoid knitted cotton ties since they don't hold their shape as well and can appear, as GQ once put it, like a droopy old sock.
I won't touch upon the colour of jackets or suits too much, since other people have done it far better than me. Just keep it classic, tasteful, and make sure your accessories go with the colours you've chosen from neck to ankle. Natural, tan, and medium blue are all great choices to differentiate from your regular worsted business suits if desired. Of course, there's nothing wrong with a navy hopsack blazer with mother of pearl buttons either -- it goes with almost anything.
Tan, brown, and burgundy leather will be the best footwear choices if wearing the archetypal earth-coloured summer suit. Suede dress shoes or dress boots are a summer classic. Suede bucks toe a good line between dressy and casual. I've even seen desert boots pulled off with a summer suit, which does make sense since they're unlined and unconstructed. Regardless, I'd use caution with them since the latter will look out of place with a tie or waistcoat.
I know that I'll make some enemies by saying this but never, under any circumstances, wear t-shirts or sneakers with a summer jacket. (Or with any tailored jackets at all.) You may think it looks "edgy" in fashion photos, but in reality you're going to look like a kid who petulantly decided they were too cool for a nice shirt and shoes. Not to mention, the lack of collar will leave dead skin cells, pigments, and oils all over the jacket collar, wearing it down and soiling it prematurely. Don't do it. Similarly, save the sandals and espadrilles for lounging around at the beach. Polo shirts can sometimes work within reason. Some people rock them with a casual summer suit, but short sleeved polos can make things look a bit incomplete when there's no cuff showing out the end of your jacket sleeves. Long sleeved polos, on the other hand, will wear warmer and by that point you may as well have worn a light open weave shirt -- voile and giro inglese are two pretty good options to start with.
With these things in mind, you're ready to look your best this summer without breaking a sweat. Well, okay, without sweating more than you need to.
How do you like to wear tailored clothing when it's warm out?
Something that tends to differentiate menswear aficionados from most people is that they will find just about any excuse to wear a jacket or tie. The question for them isn't why, but why not? Well, here's the "why" if you really must know:
- It democratizes un-ideal physiques, smoothing them out or making them look more powerful.
- They help one look more put together and more appropriate for certain situations.
- During the warmest times of year, they hide unsightly underarm perspiration on a shirt.
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| A solid getup in this deconstructed cotton suit and casual linen tie. Credit: Proper Cloth, www.propercloth.com |
The other thing that can help, besides reducing or eliminating the lining and choosing a breathable fabric, is minimal construction. Getting a lighter and thinner construction on the chest and shoulders can further mitigate the effects of the heat. Completely unstructured cotton sports coats have been popular for well over a decade now, as they pair well with very casual clothing and are inexpensive to produce and buy. Even very casual clothiers and outdoors companies make them. These have no shoulder padding, no chest piece, and no interlining at all. Most of the time, though not always, they lack lining as well. Beware that getting something completely unstructured will not have the same benefits of enhancing a physique as your typical business suit. They are best reserved for fabrics that are a bit heavier and have some more drape. Cotton or linen twills and heavier high twist wool fabrics such as Fresco by J.J. Minnis look at home with this construction or rather lack thereof. A good compromise is to get something made with no shoulder pads but a light sleevehead and light chest canvas. This will still give your shoulders and chest a bit more "oomph" while maintaining a lot of comfort.
 |
| A more relaxed take on the summer suit from Pierce Brosnan. Credit: The World is Not Enough, Eon Productions |
Though not required, casual or sporty details harmonize perfectly with summer fabrics. Patch pockets instead of besom are the most obvious detail menswear nerds think of first. They are most often seen open, without a flap, but flapped versions exist. Some even have the opening slanted, similar to hacking pockets, for a jauntier touch. Flapped patch pockets can look a bit busy depending on one's taste. Some jackets will have the breast pocket done in the patch style as well. This is, again, a matter of preference and there's nothing wrong with having a welted breast pocket combined with lower patch pockets. Nevertheless, avoid doing this in reverse since it will look unbalanced. A welted breast pocket has the advantage of disguising the bulge from wearing a pocket square, a patch will show it more, so choose according to your priorities. Patch pockets aren't all that are available. Hacking (slanted) and ticket pockets also look good on sports coats and sports suits. Swelled edges further lend a relaxed look to a jacket. This stitching will usually appear 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch away from the edge of a lapel, pocket flap, or even vents, thus giving a "swelled" appearance. It's easily and almost always done by machine, so it will not look as formal as a handmade pick stitch at the edge, but that's part of the appeal. Finally, consider your choice of vent. Though double vents are the most popular and prevalent choice in ready-made suits now, the single vent remains the sportiest option and is still a perfectly valid choice.
 |
| The single breasted peak lapel style is at odds with the very casual patch pockets. Credit: MyTailor, www.mytailor.com |
Now, I personally don't care for peak lapels and a single breasted front combined with these other details, and especially not on cotton or linen, but your mileage may vary. I have yet to see a single breasted cotton or linen jacket, or one with swelled edges and patch pockets, that benefited from peak lapels since their more formal appearance can look at odds with everything else. However, if you have a little Jay Gatsby in you and want to do it anyway, go right ahead. Strangely, I have no issue with double breasted jackets in cotton or linen with these details, though I think they look best with a welted breast pocket and pick stitched edges. I can't quite explain why that works better in my mind, but a double breasted jacket does require peak lapels to look right. In any case, the more casual the fabric and details are, the more casual the trouser it will work with. Jeans and chinos, if well chosen in colour and fit, are fair game for a cotton twill, unconstructed, patch pocketed, swelled edge jacket. If you're wearing a sports coat which is a little more "dressed up" like the below example, it's best to wear proper trousers. Blue jeans or WWII khakis would never look right in this case.
 |
| Another stylish warm weather outfit from one of Pierce Brosnan's characters. Credit: The Love Punch, Entertainment One |
Of course, a lot of this assumes you have the access to and money for made-to-measure, bespoke, or even just really good made-to-order clothing. It's still useful to keep these things in mind when shopping for off-the-rack clothing. Keep the same tenets of fit and taste in mind that you normally would. You especially shouldn't get a tight fit here, because the cooling benefits of summer jackets are lost when air can't circulate properly. If ordering online, make sure they have a good return policy; especially in the case of outdoor clothiers like Lands' End, Orvis, and so forth who often make these jackets in alpha sizes (instead of numerical chest sizes), with working sleeve buttonholes, and with a shorter body length. Some time ago I ordered a stretch cotton twill "travel blazer" from Orvis that looked fantastic on the website but left a lot to be desired in person and could not be fixed with alterations. Luckily, I was able to get my money back.
Waistcoats are your prerogative, though unlike in the time of The Great Gatbsy, they are no longer required. Keep in mind that while they look good, they add another layer of fabric and thus more warmth. That said, three-piece suits and separate waistcoats remain a classic choice for summer weddings and other such events, mostly if it's your event.
 |
| Leonardo DiCaprio demonstrates a now-rare level of formality with linen suits. Credit: The Great Gatsby (2013), Warner Bros. Pictures |
I won't touch upon the colour of jackets or suits too much, since other people have done it far better than me. Just keep it classic, tasteful, and make sure your accessories go with the colours you've chosen from neck to ankle. Natural, tan, and medium blue are all great choices to differentiate from your regular worsted business suits if desired. Of course, there's nothing wrong with a navy hopsack blazer with mother of pearl buttons either -- it goes with almost anything.
 |
| Don't forget the versatility of a navy blazer when it's hot out. Credit: Black Lapel, www.blacklapel.com |
Tan, brown, and burgundy leather will be the best footwear choices if wearing the archetypal earth-coloured summer suit. Suede dress shoes or dress boots are a summer classic. Suede bucks toe a good line between dressy and casual. I've even seen desert boots pulled off with a summer suit, which does make sense since they're unlined and unconstructed. Regardless, I'd use caution with them since the latter will look out of place with a tie or waistcoat.
I know that I'll make some enemies by saying this but never, under any circumstances, wear t-shirts or sneakers with a summer jacket. (Or with any tailored jackets at all.) You may think it looks "edgy" in fashion photos, but in reality you're going to look like a kid who petulantly decided they were too cool for a nice shirt and shoes. Not to mention, the lack of collar will leave dead skin cells, pigments, and oils all over the jacket collar, wearing it down and soiling it prematurely. Don't do it. Similarly, save the sandals and espadrilles for lounging around at the beach. Polo shirts can sometimes work within reason. Some people rock them with a casual summer suit, but short sleeved polos can make things look a bit incomplete when there's no cuff showing out the end of your jacket sleeves. Long sleeved polos, on the other hand, will wear warmer and by that point you may as well have worn a light open weave shirt -- voile and giro inglese are two pretty good options to start with.
 |
| He was much better dressed at the beginning of this article! Credit: Proper Cloth, www.propercloth.com |
With these things in mind, you're ready to look your best this summer without breaking a sweat. Well, okay, without sweating more than you need to.
How do you like to wear tailored clothing when it's warm out?
Struggling to understand here but how is the tee shirt and trainers look that bad? I figure especially you pair it with jeans and it'll look fine. Dressing up an otherwise ordinary look. And you can always just take a damp cloth and wipe off the collar if worried about stains there. But this is a really detailed article so thanks. Also wanted to ask if a knitted jumper would look better than a tee shirt maybe? Less Miami Vice looking?
ReplyDeleteHello Anonymous, they look bad with a tailored jacket because they're too far removed from them in formality. Jeans can look good with a sports coat provided it and everything else is at the lower end of formality. I'd also avoid whiskered, pre-faded or light wash blue jeans. Jeans in good repair that come in colours you can find on chinos or actual dress trousers will look best. I also like to press or steam my jeans so they look their best. Not with a crease, just so the fabric isn't rumpled.
DeleteThe collar will still get soiled prematurely even if you wipe it off with a damp cloth or use a garment brush regularly. You'll need to take it to be dry cleaned more frequently. It's just not worth the hassle. A shirt collar will feel more comfortable against the back of your neck and helps frame your face better with a tailored jacket anyway.
A sweater will look a little odd with a summer jacket. I know some people wear thin Merino wool polos and are perfectly comfortable in the summer, but I could see that getting a little too hot with an extra layer over it. I would wait until it gets cold again to wear a sweater with sports coats. Both the style I mentioned previously and a turtleneck can look nice with tweed or corduroy without needing a shirt underneath.
Thanks for this article. I am cold, or at least chilled, most of the time, so this was really useful.
ReplyDeleteAnother point to be clear about is, especially places like Las Vegas, has very hot days where it is still 90*F+ at midnight BUT establishments have the air conditioning running full blast, thus it might be 100* outside but sub-70 and a wind tunnel indoors. Good to have something with you to keep that chill off.
That's something I hadn't considered in making this article, but is a very good point! In fact, I used to have a cotton drill sports coat back in Florida which was useful for that very reason. The humidity made things feel 10 degrees hotter, but inside the A/C would be running at something like 65 degrees.
DeleteYou understand. Perhaps even more so, as there is humidity in Florida. We are lucky to get to the double digits here. LOL
DeleteIs that three button style where it goes down to a two button level also a casual thing? I don't see it very much on regular wool suits.
ReplyDeleteYes and no. Yes because it was, for the longest time, most often seen on sports coats and suits with very light construction and swelled edges. But also no because there are some suits that look pretty formal in the fabric, details, and have a very built up and/or stiff construction but have this fastening. For example, Tom Ford has made a number of "three-roll-two" suits that are quite structured and have formal fabric. There's also a headshot of Cary Grant somewhere in a three-roll-two suit with peak lapels, a style seen less than one with notch lapels. I think Suit Supply have made some like that. But to answer your question succinctly, a three-roll-two front goes pretty well with a deconstructed jacket like the one from Proper Cloth. However, there's also nothing wrong with getting a two button front if that's what one prefers.
Delete