Review: Ratio Clothing -- Campus Oxford

Custom shirts? $89? Free shipping? Made in the USA? Say it ain't so!

Well, it is. Ratio Clothing has entered the fold. By using size variables that most guys know such as neck and sleeve measurements, coat size, and fit preference, they take a lot of the work out of measuring for a custom shirt online and simplify the process significantly. This makes them more accessible to people who are just starting to build their shirt wardrobe or want something a little non-standard but are intimidated by the process of online made-to-measure.

For my first shirt from them, I chose the White Campus Oxford with button down collar, barrel cuffs, and side pleats in the back. The last option is something I wish was more prevalent on OCBD shirts. I much prefer them over the ubiquitous American centre pleat in looks and functionality. They somehow feel a little more comfortable and a little less office drone... but I digress.

The Ratio Slim Fit is a little unforgiving, so if you're unsure about it or have a few extra pounds you should probably get the Classic Fit. The tails were a tad shorter after washing, and this is when I chose the Long length. (I'm 6'1, for reference.) Owner Eric Powell later clarified that the Ratio Slim Fit option has shorter tails. I personally think that measurement should be as long as on the Classic Fit, especially when you consider taller guys and the lower waists of modern trousers.

If you're worried about sizing, he informed me that adjustments can be made through email. Any special requests for style options not available on the website can also made. He's also considering offering a more Brooks Brothers-like button down collar in the future, which would be excellent for the purists.

Their button down collar looks nice worn open, but needs a bit of work to look better with a tie. The points lay pretty flat as they are, more so than on a similarly proportioned Ralph Lauren button down. I've already talked with Eric about this and he seems very receptive to making improvements such as giving a bit of curve to the points, increasing the tie space to 3/8", and adding a little more roll. I think the collar could be further improved by making it completely unlined, but I was assured this can be specially requested. To my eye, this looks better both with a tie and open collar. The collar, cuffs, and placket are lined, but the interfacing is soft and unfused. This is similar to Brooks Brothers' current OCBD. The fabric is also comparable to their Supima Oxford in terms of thickness and quality. It's a bit stiff at first, but he assures me it softens up nicely over a few washes.

The construction is great for the price and includes a split yoke, single needle tailoring with sixteen stitches per inch, and high quality resin buttons. Again, this isn't bad at all considering an imported off the rack shirt may cost just as much if not more than $89.

I highly recommend them despite the minor nitpicks -- which no one besides me and "Trad" aficionados will really care about -- and will be making at least a few more purchases in the next year to round out my shirt collection. Is an Ecru Classic Pinpoint with English spread collar and French cuffs in my future? Probably, unless the collar and cuffs decide to go to war with each other.


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