Black Lapel Spring 2014

I think, for once, Black Lapel has actually released something right on time. Ahead of time, actually.

The Spring 2014 Collection is here. Along with their usual addition of a few all-seasonal suitings (the grey birdseye is a particularly classic choice), there is finally linen! Or sort of. Blends of roughly 3/4 wool and 1/4 linen. Derek Tian explained that this was chosen because it resists wrinkles more than pure linen, but less than pure wool while still giving much of the same warm weather comfort. Along with that is a wool-mohair blend in light grey with white stripes. Blends of mohair (you will rarely if ever see a fabric in pure mohair) are more breathable in warm weather than pure wool but aren't as popular as they once were for menswear. I hope to see more wool-mohair blends from them in the future, including solids. I only find it unfortunate that the model is wearing a belt with a three piece suit, as it splays and bulges out the waistcoat points in an unattractive way. The dark belt also breaks up what should be an elegant flow of fabric.

I'm not sure if they changed this before the spring collection, but I just noticed the Shawl Tuxedo pictures were updated to a classier single button style with the newer, improved shawl shape. It is a big improvement from the examples pictures they had before -- rather bottom heavy and evocative of the '90s in a bad way -- but the bottom taper may be a tad too skinny for my tastes. Worth noting however that they are perfectly willing to copy lapel shapes that you prefer, which is great for guys like me who are way too picky.


Popular Posts