Trends and our shifting perception of good fit.
Take, for example, these suit dimensions taken from Mr Porter's Kingsman collection. I want to know who on earth they are making tailored clothing for. I don't know of any cisgender men with a 42" chest that have shoulders as narrow as 17.5". This is crazy even accounting for their sizing recommendations. (One wonders why they didn't just relabel them as the lower size.) That might even be small for someone born female! It's worth nothing that this brand is a tie-in for movies where bespoke tailoring plays a big role. If anything, it's better to have shoulders that are slightly too wide than slightly too narrow. Too narrow, especially combined with a smaller circumference at the bicep as is popular now, can produce dimples underneath the shoulder seam. Not a good look. But it's one that I've dealt with a lot recently due to my larger than average point-to-point measurement. A lot of people may not consciously notice it though, let alone care. Which is regrettable. We've gotten so used to poor fit in the last decade that it's become difficult to educate people otherwise.
|Mike Colter's godlike build is hardly done justice.|
|Lack of harmony between waistcoat and trouser.|
This happened to one of our customers at the menswear store I used to work at. He ordered a made-to-measure suit and indicated wanting it fairly close fitting. So naturally, we made some adjustments to the fabric allowances. The trousers had a 14" bottom which is already pushing it, the chest had 3" of allowance, et cetera. It arrived and he was disappointed to say the least. Why? We didn't know. It looked great! But over the course of a month he had it taken in so much it became a wrinkly, grabby mess on his wedding day. It was a waste of beautiful French blue serge. I'm pretty sure he'll look back at the wedding pictures some day and wonder what he was thinking. One can hope, at least.
|Complete and utter shenanigans.|
As another example, one of my customers had me take in a shirt until it seemed like he couldn't breathe. I pointed out that the placket was gaping. However, he thought it was great and absolutely refused to let me move any of the sewing pins out. It looked highly uncomfortable and, to my eye, not a lick stylish. He couldn't move! He would return later on to get the same thing done to another shirt. I don't get it.
|Well fitting and just modern enough.|
I'm surely not the only one who is sick and tired of the short and tight fit trend.